Picking the Pictures

Picking the Pictures

The Doctor’s House Hostel – Your Home in Sarajevo

There is something I need to confess. I’m an introvert, who loves hostels. I realize this might be slightly hard to imagine, especially in the Balkans, where most of the backpacker friendly places to stay are party hostels. But this is the way I am, and I know that there are more of us, these introverts who always choose to stay in dorms. Frugal travelers, who want to socialize, but they appreciate when their privacy is respected. Not too interested in partying till the sunrise, but happy to chat over a beer. If you are one of them, The Doctor’s House Hostel is your kind of place in Sarajevo, the beautiful and multicultural capital of Bosnia and Hercegovina. Here is why.The idea behind the nameThe Doctor’s House was established by Kat, an American living in Sarajevo. Kat is not a doctor, but she is a daughter of one. She was raised in a doctor’s house. Her family moved from the US to Nigeria, where her father was helping people. The doctor’s house was a place where everyone was getting the greatest care. Kat’s hostel is meant to be a place like that, too. A link between visitors and Bosnians, a place that helps international and local communities while building bridges between them. I love the idea behind the name. I really like the place that was created in the name of that idea. LocationThe Doctor’s House Hostel is located just 10 minutes away from the Cathedral, the vibrant Farhadija Street and the tram stop. Sounds perfect, right? You only need to be ready to walk up the hill on your way back. The views from balconies are worth it, I promise. The Doctor’s House is a standalone house in a quiet, residential neighbourhood. There are several markets, grocery stores and bakeries in the area, so shopping won’t ever be a problem. Inside the hostelThe hostel offers spacious private rooms and mixed shared dorms. Every floor has a shared bathroom. There is a well equipped kitchen for all the foodie travelers who are up for some homemade dishes. A coffee and tea selection awaits you, too. Last but not least, the fridge is full of beer (at least 4 different kinds), so if you get thirsty you can just grab a bottle, sign the drink list and pay while checking out. In the ground floor you will find a big common area where you can hang out with other travelers, borrow a book or play games. I made several friends in that room. Not too bad for an introvert. I must say that I loved my dorm. How can you not love dorms that have bed curtains? What could possibly top that? A bed with a privacy curtain, a mirror, a power plug and a lamp for a bookworm like me to read at night without waking everyone else up (read…or translate, but that’s other story). The private rooms and the bathrooms could easily do in a good hotel. Nicely designed, comfortable, extremely clean and modern…What else would you ever need?If you are a smoker, don’t worry, there are designated smoking areas for you, too. The place has very clear smoking guidelines to make sure everyone will be comfortable.Anything else? Yeah, of course, the wifi. A crucial thing for us, freelancers. Yes, there is wifi in the property and it works both in common area and in the dorms.If you would like to buy some souvenirs, the hostel offers cute handmade products from various regions of Bosnia and Herzegovina. While buying them, you help locals.The StaffThe Doctor’s House Hostel team is extremely friendly, hospitable and professional. They are always available and ready to give you travel advice. The reception desk doesn’t work at night, but the team is supported by a volunteer who lives in the property. He can always assist you if anything happens.I’d like to thank the team here for all the kindness, great pieces of advice and nice conversations. I was happy to meet you guys. You made my stay in Sarajevo a better, richer experience. ActivitiesThe Doctor’s House organizes tours to Sarajevo’s less accessible landmarks: the abandoned bobsleigh track, a haunting remnant of Winter Olympics in 1984, and the Tunnel of Hope, the only connection between the besieged city and the Bosnian controlled territories from 1993 to 1995. Both these sights are quite difficult to reach by public transportation, so a tour like that is the best option if you want to save your time and money. It will be much cheaper than a cab, and you will have a nice company and a local guide. At least 3 people have to sign up for the tour to be organized. The price is 30 KM/15 EUR.The Doctor’s House Hostel is here to connect you to Sarajevo and to help you do it like a local. What are you waiting for? I’d go back in an instantLike The Doctor’s House on Facebook and stay there on your trip to the Balkans!I’ve partnered with The Doctor’s House during my stay in Sarajevo. As always, all the opinions are my own. Photo credit of the pictures of bedrooms goes to The Doctor’s House hostel. Other images are mine.

Picking the Pictures

Quirks of Batumi

If you asked me to describe Batumi, the most famous city at the Georgian coast, I’d say it’s odd. I’m not sure if I like it. I don’t hate it. It makes me take photos like there is no tomorrow. What a weird city it is.It’s been over three years since my first visit to Batumi. I returned in early August in a desperate search of a nice beach. Actually, I’ve stayed in Kobuleti this time, but I just had to make a day trip to see that peculiar resort again. Also, my boyfriend has never been there, which sounded like a great reason to go for both of us. I love that solo female travel thing, but one needs a change sometimes. Not much has changed in Batumi in the last two years. It still feels like a tipsy architect’s playground. I’m not sure if words will do it justice. Luckily, I have enough images to tell the tale. I rather enjoy Batumi, although I’m sure no one here ever heard of urban planning. The Russian style old town blends with new buildings that pretend they are somewhere in the Persian Gulf. Turkish restaurants are ubiquitous. Fancy skyscrapers overlook a stinky harbor full of half-sunken boats. Chaos is the new harmony in Batumi. As a visual addict, I approve.Which image is your favorite?

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Travel Flashback #25

They say that a well-traveled person can never be in only one place. It’s so true. Our hearts always wander. They always long for distant lands we fell for. Mine is not an exception. That’s why every week from now on I will be posting one picture of a place that has been on my mind lately.Taken in Shushi, Nagorno-Karabakh Republic.

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The Batumi Green Cape

So, you are in Batumi and beach bumming bores you? Here is a perfect day trip idea. Discover natural beauty of a very unique place just around the corner. Go to the Batumi Botanical Garden.It is located a bit outside of town, in a place called The Green Cape on the Black Sea shore. I must say the name is well-deserved.The garden was created back in 19th. It covers 108 hectares. That’s a chunk of land, isn’t it? The institution is home to numerous plants hailing from very different corners of the globe. A bamboo forest, Japanese decorative trees, Peruvian plants, citrus collection, European flowers, everything coexist at the Green Cape. The Batumi Botanical Garden is a perfect place to walk around, get lost, and take close-up photos of flowers. This is exactly what I did there. Here is a little tribute to one great green space.Which image is your favorite? Do you visit botanical gardens during your travels?

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Solo female traveler in Beirut

I’ve dreamt of Lebanon for a long time. I haven’t known much about the place, but it was calling my name. Untold promise of the best food on the planet made me wonder about it even more. When I finally found a scandalously cheap first-minute ticket, I booked it without thinking. I mean I booked a flight to Middle East ten months in advance without telling anyone. I know, I know. This region is like a box of matches. Something might always happen to your plans. It might, but it didn’t. I spend ten incredible days in Lebanon this spring. I blogged about my journey a little before, but I’m not finished yet. There is much more I want to tell you about my time in Beirut and some of the trips I’ve taken. Even before I boarded that plane, I knew I would have to write an article for solo female travelers that have Lebanon on their lists. I realize there are too many articles on solo female travel on the internet. Except, try to google solo female travel in Lebanon.Yes, you are right. Not much has been written about it. Not yet. When I was strolling around Beirut’s downtown area on my first day, I noticed I was the only tourist, awkwardly blond and glued to a map. I could have looked a bit lost. Honestly, I’m so directionally challenged that I often look lost in my very own hometown. Nothing too creepy happened though. It was rather cool, to have it to myself.Beirut is not exactly a popular tourist hub. Western media have been working on its bad reputation for decades. It’s time for a change, I said to myself, while strolling around Gemmayze two months ago. Beirut, pictured by many as a grey zone worn off by the Civil War, is a vibrant metropolis with fascinating street art scene and numerous galleries hidden in narrow alleys.While wandering around I kept asking myself questions. Where are all the tourists? Is it really that underrated? Are people really scared to pay Lebanon a visit? Was it silly of me to come? No, it wasn’t silly. I loved my time in Lebanon and I’d recommend it to other female travelers. Here are some tips.ResearchI’m not that naïve; I won’t tell you Middle East is always safe, because we all know it might not be. Before planning your trip, research the situation. Western media and your embassy website shouldn’t be your only sources. Try to talk to a local to get a big picture. If you decide to buy a first-minute ticket, check on the situation once more before your departure. I cancelled some of the planned daytrips, as my local friends advised me not to go to the areas bordering Syria. I really wanted to see the magnificent monuments of Baalbek, but I decided to listen to the locals. Someone who lives in a country is always wiser than you. Choose a central locationCentral location is crucial in Beirut. The traffic in Lebanon is crazy and the public transportation system is scarce. I usually don’t mind staying in the outskirts of cities when I travel, but that simply doesn’t work in Beirut. I chose a hostel by the harbor, ten minutes walk to the downtown and my very favorite Gemmayze area. I must say Beirut is not the most walkable city in the world. Be prepared, crossing streets here is not as simple as you might think. Also, the drivers won’t stop honking, no matter how many times you curse them. I’d also recommend you to stay in a hostel. Beirut doesn’t offer many budget accommodation options, but you can find a hostel in downtown for around 15 USD/night in a female only dorm. Hotels in central districts are ridiculously overpriced. As I said, location is the key to comfort in Beirut, so I guess the choice is easy.Eat, eat, eatI swear, Lebanon has the best food on this planet. A vegetarian will be happy here, too. I could easily eat falafel from Araz three times a day, and I would be content enough. I’d do anything to have a scoop of ashta ice cream right now. And the coffee, it’s so strong and delicious; it will keep you going through the day. If you are into street food I’d recommend you a culinary detour to the Bourj Hammoud area aka Little Armenia. I know, I tend to get overexcited about all the things Armenian, but I promise you that this time you won’t be disappointed, even If you don’t have emotional ties with that tiny, landlocked republic in South Caucasus. One more reason why you should go for street food: eating out is kind of expensive. You need at least 20-30 USD to dine in a restaurant in downtown and don’t feel silly. That’s not a budget option, huh.It’s modernI grew up in Europe. During my childhood I pictured Lebanon as a warzone (well, it was a warzone back then). If a Lebanese person was on TV, it was a terrorist. Now, Lebanon only gets noticed occasionally. Like when ISIS steps too close, or when Hezbollah does something that annoys the West. Growing up in Europe, I never heard of all the gems of architecture Lebanon has to offer. I could never imagine how cool the nightlife is. I would never guess how good the contemporary art galleries are. I never thought I’d be so comfortable strolling around downtown late in the evening. I got fooled into seeing one side of the coin, the one that media in my region wanted to show me. The art scene is greatYou like art? Good. Beirut is a place for you then. The city offers you both a vibrant street art scene and a rich choice of contemporary art galleries. A street art lover should explore Gemmayze and Mar Mikhail. A little degustation of what can be found there is available here. Beirut is home to too many galleries to explore in a limited time I could spend in the city, but I put together a short list of places that can serve you as a point of reference while there. I linked the websites for you, so it would be easier to find exhibitions you might be interested in. Check out these places:Beirut Art CenterArt LabArt LoungeAshkal AlwanBeirut Exhibition Center The nightlifeBeirut could easily be a party destination. Honestly, I have no idea why it isn’t. Partying might be a bit pricey, but a nightlife culture there is definitely something you should experience. All the pubs and bars are on Mar Mikhail street, Gemmayze might be worth checking out, too. I’d recommend you to take a stroll there one evening, and just enter any pub that catches your eye. There is too many of them to even list any. Remember that many pubs in the area have a happy hour from 7 PM to 8 PM. 50% off, does it sound good to you?The languageI don’t speak a word of Arabic. These two or three phrases I picked up in Morocco wouldn’t work in Beirut anyway. I was a bit concerned about the language barrier. Luckily, I was wrong. Of course, if you go to the countryside it will be a problem, but in the capital English is widely spoken. Besides, nearly everyone is fluent in French. One day tripsLebanon is small, which basically means that you can go on a day trip from Beirut to practically any other place in the country. Some of the most popular spots like Byblos and Harissa are right outside Beirut, and you can visit them in one afternoon. If you fancy a longer trip I truly recommend Saida and Mleeta. I hope this post will help solo female travelers who have Beirut on their list. If you have any questions about traveling to Lebanon leave me a comment or send me a message.

Picking the Pictures

Travel Flashback #23

They say that a well-traveled person can never be in only one place. It’s so true. Our hearts always wander. They always long for distant lands we fell for. Mine is not an exception. That’s why every week from now on I will be posting one picture of a place that has been on my mind lately.Taken somewhere in Athens, Greece.

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Visiting a Sand Castle

I feel like every travel blogger has already published a Game of Thrones themed post this year. I’m not always joining these trends. I don’t care about the Top Y Things to do in a Destination X posts. I never read any posts about travel gear other bloggers use. I’m allergic to articles on travel wears. Why would my internet ever need this, anyway? I don’t think posts on movie locations are particularly cool or anything. I’ll make an exception for GoT though. And no, the fact that I’m a big fan is not the main reason. I’m a self-diagnosed visual addict. My internet is always down for a photojourney, and a GoT filming location I was lucky to visit earlier this year is a perfect spot to create one. Once upon a time I went to Ait Ben-Haddou and took tons of photos. Once upon a time I went to Yunkai and there were no slaves, no fighting pits, and no blonde queens. Ait Ben-Haddou, aka Yunkai, is an UNESCO heritage site located in a middle of beige nowhere a bit outside of the city of Ourzazate. It’s one of the best preserved examples of a Saharan ksar, a fortified town. Made of earthen clay, it has exactly the same color as the surrounding lands. Believe me, it feels like the Earth just grew it there one day. It doesn’t look like it was even built, it looks like it was born and left in the desert. The settlement is almost abandoned today. The caravan route it used to serve doesn’t exist anymore. The buildings, crowded inside fortified walls , are more like monuments today. Monuments to prosperity of the region that has seen better, busier days. Monuments to surrounding nature that never ceases to amaze a visitor. There are no more caravans, but I guess tourists coming by a slightly overpriced taxi from Ourzarzate will have to suffice. Well, the dragons might always make an appearance. Or their blonde Mother Queen. For obvious reasons Ait Ben-Haddou is way more than Yunkai, even in the history of cinema. Actually, a bunch of other movies was filmed there, including Kundun, Gladiator, and Babel. I’m not surprised. If I ever decide to film anything, I might head to southern Morocco again. Wait, before you go on the photojourney I’d like to give you a gift. Here is a little soundtrack for you. Here is my favorite remake of the GoT intro by a very new Armenian music project called VanaTor. Now, let’s go. We will visit some sand castles.Which image is your favorite?

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Two Years in Armenia

Two years ago yesterday I arrived to Yerevan after a red-eye flight to Tbilisi, and a bumpy marshrutka ride. The marshrutka, a minibus, had a cracked front glass, but I didn’t pay any attention to it. I almost cried when I crossed the border. I had two suitcases and a plan to live in the Armenian capital for about a year. I had a contract, a group of supportive friends, and a dream of creating a happy life in a place so many people leave for Europe. Perhaps grass is always greener on the other side.It started a year earlier. I came for a summer internship to research emigration. Ironically enough, this took me to my own immigration decision. Armenia just happened to me. I wasn’t scared or anything. It felt normal. Someone was moving to London, someone was moving from a small town to a capital, and I was moving from Poland to Armenia.I’ve read somewhere that moving to a richer country won’t make you happier. I guess that’s what my guts were telling me when I was sitting in that marshrutka. In the beginning I thought it was temporary. An adventure. And it was, indeed. The first ten months were the crazy ones. Partying, mending a broken heart that Europe gave me as her farewell gift, going places all over South Caucasus. (Well, I was working too, but that’s not what this post is meant to be about). Last spring was different. I got tired of partying. I came to peace with that breakup. I grow bored of my NGO jobs. I missed working as a language professional. I wanted to translate, to play my game with words all over again. I briefly contemplated leaving Armenia. Everything here irritated me. That’s okay, I thought. It’s my time to go. This is what they do, these privileged immigrants, who call themselves expats. They come, they conquer, and then they move on. Now, it’s my turn.I started translating again, but I wasn’t making enough to risk full time freelancing. I passionately daydreamt about places to go. I was thinking of Prague and the Balkans. I even told some friends that I’m slowly building an exit route.Except, I never left. Yes, you are right. I met a guy I wanted to settle for. But this story isn’t only about it. We could go live anywhere in the world, a writer and a musician can do anywhere. We are still here though, and I’m ridiculously content with the life we built. The life we are building.Last spring taught me many lessons. I learnt that escaping is not an answer. That you should quit that job you hate if you know what you love. I learnt that unpopular choices are often the best ones. That if you dream, you have to stand for it. I learnt that I don’t need stuff.I never imagined I would stay in Armenia for that long. But I did. I live in a city I really like, sharing my days with a person I love. I made friends here. I quit all the jobs I didn’t like and became a full time translator. I started translating literature again. I started writing poems again. I still don’t understand how I could have neglected what I love the most for so long.In the beginning I thought my life in Armenia was temporary. That was until I understood that it doesn’t have to be. I managed to create a full life here and I have no reason to make another move. I want to travel,and to come home after. Yes, I’ve just called Yerevan home.

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How I Like To Choose The Right Camera For Me

It doesn’t matter whether you are a professional photographer or whether you are strictly amateur, you should always treat your camera with the ultimate respect. For me, that means choosing correctly. If I don’t have the right equipment, I always feel it will affect my photography, something I want to avoid like the plague! It doesn’t matter whether you are a professional who does it for a living or a novice who is looking to improve. Whatever your agenda, you cannot afford to get it wrong, so here are the basics I think will help you out.BudgetI always see new cameras and want one without looking at the price, and that is dangerous. Trust me; I know your pain! The shinier they are, the harder it is to put them down, but you have to have a strict budget and stick to it. Please don’t spend more than you can afford because it never works out well. You never want to get yourself your debt just for a camera, even if it is the perfect one!Know your limitsEveryone likes to think of themselves as the consummate photographer, almost like a young David Bailey. I know I do anyway! But, keep in mind that you might not be as good as you think you are. I don’t say that to discourage you; it is more to keep you on the right track. For example, if you are a complete novice you don’t need a camera with all the mod cons. In that case, you want a nice piece of equipment that you can get used to before you move on and buy another camera.What do you need it for?If it is just for a few holiday snaps, don’t worry too much about the specifications. In fact, your camera on your phone might be a good idea because they are very decent nowadays. A small, compact camera that you can fit in your pocket is another alternative, plus they are affordable. But, if you want to hang your photos in your living room a long lens DSLR is the best way to go.BrandDo you prefer a Canon or a Nikon? What is the difference? How much difference does one make? The Canon vs Nikon argument is an age old argument in the photography world, but in my view it is important. Not just because Canon’s or Nikon’s are the best, but because it raises an important question about brands. Brands can become a bit of an obsession because you associate certain brands with quality. But, there are other brands out there that will suit your needs, so don’t restrict yourself to one or two models. Go with what you likeTo be honest, you will find a lot of cameras that you cannot find a difference between and that makes choosing difficult. All you can do is go with your gut in cases like that because there is only so much research to analyse. Remember that you need to be comfortable with your camera as well, so you should love your choice.I am not saying that these tips are everything you need to know, but they are important things to consider.

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Go where the wind blows

If you are in Lisbon, make sure you get to Cabo da Roca. It’s only rocks, you might say. But they are magnificent rocks that happened to occupy a truly mind-blowing spot.Mind-blowing? Yeah, wind is gonna blow in your face so hard that both your mind and your camera might get slightly confused. I literally couldn’t get a picture that wouldn’t be totally blurry. The wind was tossing the camera in my hand! And I’m a photoblogger, who is supposed to know how to deal with these things. Huh. Hold on to your gear, because, you guys, no matter how windy it gets, you won’t stop taking pictures. It’s just too beautiful. You will have to capture it. The fact that it’s been photographed gazillion times before won’t matter. It actually never does, right?Cabo da Roca is the most western point of Europe. This is where the old, good continent starts, and where it ends. All you can see from there is azure blue water and a promise of faraway lands.Sometimes I argue that borders only exist in the people's minds, but, when I get to stand in a place like Cabo da Roca, I suddenly believe in them. They are like gates, places of natural transition, and points of change. They exist, but their meaning belongs to us. We form it. We are the ones who decide if they are a beginning, or rather an end. Scroll down, see the images and decide. Or just make a wish. 

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Travel Flashback #21

They say that a well-traveled person can never be in only one place. It’s so true. Our hearts always wander. They always long for distant lands we fell for. Mine is not an exception. That’s why every week from now on I will be posting one picture of a place that has been on my mind lately.Taken somewhere in Beirut, Lebanon.

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Palaces of Marrakech

Well, I won’t discover anything if I say that Marrakech is rather hectic. Or that it attacks all your senses with its saturated colors and not always pleasant smells. This story has been told million times, I know.Maze of Moroccan cities would make every traveler worn off, sooner or later. Fortunately, Morocco has so much to offer that there is gazillion ways to escape smelly hustle and bustle of its overcrowded urban areas. You can always go hiking or beach bumming, but actually, you don’t have to leave the city to prevent exhaustion.While in Marrakech you can always go visit Marrakech palaces. I went on detour to see Bahia and Badi palaces and I loved both. They couldn’t be more different, yet both of them charmed me. Contrasts are always fascinating.Bahia Palace is the prettier friend. Its name means brilliance and it lives it up to the expectations. Built in late 19 century, the palace captures Moroccan style of the time. What used to be grand vizier’s house (or rather one of his houses) is a beautiful history lesson today. It also has marvelous gardens that were my favorite part of the visit.Bahia is rich, pretty and capricious while El Badi is poor, but proud.El Badi Palace is much older than Bahia. It was commissioned in 16 century and lived its golden days long ago. Nowadays we can see only ruins, but anyway, they are one of the most known Marrakech tourist spots. There is a photography gallery within the palace, where you can see exhibits of famous contemporary photographers from all over the world. I had no idea about this space. It was a very pleasant surprise to discover that Andre Kertesz’s images are on display. Both palaces are located in the Medina of Marrakech. Getting from Bahia to El Badi takes not more than ten minutes by walk, so you can see both places in one day. That’s what I did and I loved the contrast.Here is a little photo tour. Let me take you to the two palaces of Marrakech.Bahia PalaceEl Badi PalaceHave you been there? Which palace you liked better?

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Picture Perfection Defined: One Day in Óbidos

I love visiting small cities, where time stood still before I was even born. I like the feeling of freedom they give. Freedom to just wander without a to-do list or must-sees. Places where you need no map. Tiny cities are local paradises for slow travelers, or at least this is how I see it. Tiny cities in southern Europe very often have something more to them. They are also a history lesson, a preserved piece of a fairy tale that was told centuries before.Portugal is full of these gems. One of them is located just an hour outside of Lisbon. It’s called Óbidos and you can’t afford skipping it if you are around. It’s just too pretty. Imagine a little settlement of picture perfect white houses, red roofs and narrow cobbled streets encircled by well preserved fortified walls. And yes, it’s located on a hilltop with an unspoiled view. It’s so perfect it will hurt your eyes and make your camera battery die. Trust me on that one. I don’t think I could ever stay there overnight without turning into a capricious princess. I’m not sure if anyone could, but I’d recommend it as an easy day trip from Lisbon. Be prepared for cuteness overload. Practical Tips:How to get to Óbidos from Lisbon?You can get there by bus. RODOTEJO buses go to Óbidos from Lisbon Campo Grande terminal. You will need a Rapida Verde line. The ticket is 7,70 euro one way and you buy it in the bus. The bus schedule is available here. PricesWell, I only have one piece of advice: if you are up for a day trip, get your dinner back in Lisbon. I found Óbidos ridiculously overpriced and I’m afraid it’s not only my impression…I didn’t really try any souvenir shops, but I guess it’s not very different from the eateries. 

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Where to Stay in Porto: Porto Alive Hostel

Porto seems to have gazillion hostels, even more than Lisbon. You have so much to choose from that your head hurts. That’s why I decided to leave you a piece of advice. I spent three amazing days wandering aimlessly around the city, getting lost and found while photographing Porto’s facades, narrow streets, and funky street art pieces. I stayed at Porto Alive Hostel, which might be a great base for a budget traveler who likes walking through new cities, and staying in the center of things.LocationThe hostel’s location is pure perfection. It is situated in an old building on Rua das Flores, just a step away from the majestic Aliados. Rua das Flores is one of the most charming streets of old Porto. Pedestrian only, filled with artisan jewelry stores and street musicians. What I loved about Porto is walkability of the city’s old districts. If you settle in Porto Alive hostel, you won’t have a need to use public transportation. You can comfortably and easily walk everywhere from Ribeira to all the museums to Crystal Palace. The only time I used a bus was when I wanted to get to the Matosinhos beach, but, well, that’s just a long way, and the bus stop is right outside the place. The Sao Bento train station is a minute walk from your hostel bed; the bus station is also in a walking distance. You are in the middle of Porto’s hustle and bustle, but the street calms down at night letting you get the rest you need to walk, photograph and eat your way through Portugal. The strategical location makes it up for any disadvantages the hostel might. Trust me on that one. Inside the hostelPorto Alive hostel offers shared dormitories and private rooms. The restrooms and showers are situated in the hall, right outside the room’s door. They are always neat and clean. I stayed in a shared room for six people. It was spacious enough, clean and comfortable. The rooms are equipped with bunk beds, lockers and a set of shelves. There is also a mirror. All the rooms have balconies. My dorm had a view on my favorite Rua das Flores. As a guest you will get bed sheet without a deposit. Each bed has a little lamp for all the night owls like me to use, when other guests are asleep. There are also numerous power points for computer addicts. Unfortunately, the internet could be better in the rooms. It works much faster in the reception, but if you are a fan of working in your bed, you might get in a slight trouble. There is an internet point with accessible notebooks downstairs though, so I guess I’m not really in a position to complain too much. The hostel offers also a tiny multilanguage library, where you can find a book to read. Nice, especially if you are a bookworm traveling with a carry on only. Let me show you around. The rooms aren’t everything. The hostel occupies an entire century old building. The guests can use a fully equipped kitchen in the basement and a common room. There is also a patio in the back. The backyard space has a great potential to be a fantastic hangout, but, unfortunately, that would require a thorough cleaning. Any volunteers?While talking about the kitchen, I should mention that there is a complimentary breakfast served in the mornings. It’s very basic, but it’s always something. You get coffee, tea, orange juice, toast bread, and jam. Not much, but it’s always nice. Many hostels won’t feed you at all, so that’s always an advantage. The StaffI had a pleasure to meet three receptionists. All of them proved to be knowledgeable, helpful, and friendly. They helped me to find my way around the city, and to dig out all the information I needed to plan my stay. Thank you for your assistance! There is also information about the events in Porto at the reception. The staff can sign you up for various walking tours, pub crawls, and other activities a social visitor might fancy to be part of. I didn’t have a chance to participate in any of these events, but I believe it’s a great opportunity of meeting new people and getting to see Porto through local’s eyes. Is it worth it?Yes. Porto Alive Hostel makes a great base for a frugal traveler thanks to its perfect location and affordable prices. It’s a great point to start an exploration of the pearl of Porto. It certainly has a great value for money. Even if there are a few little things that I think could be improved, I fully recommend Porto Alive Hostel to all frugal travelers out there.Source of all the photos of the hostel’s interior: Porto Alive HostelPorto Alive Hostel generously offered us a discounted stay. As always, all opinions are mine.

Picking the Pictures

Travel Flashback #19

They say that a well-traveled person can never be in only one place. It’s so true. Our hearts always wander. They always long for distant lands we fell for. Mine is not an exception. That’s why every week from now on I will be posting one picture of a place that has been on my mind lately.Taken somewhere at Lake Uzungol, Turkey.

Picking the Pictures

Your home in Lisbon: Jardim de Santos Hostel

Lisbon definitely has a vibrant hostel scene. Better for us – the hostels have to compete hard to catch the traveler’s attention. They have to play it better than everyone else. After a brief research, I thought I will give Jardim de Santos Hostel a shot. I spent four nights there and never looked back. Since the very first night I’ve known I’d recommend this place to anyone without blinking an eye.As you might guess, I stayed at many hostels during my travels. I always stay at hostels. So, I never thought I might still fell in love with one. Or even let one surprise me. Well, then I went to Lisbon and stayed at a place that checked all the boxes.LocationJardim de Santos Hostel is located just several minutes walk from Cais do Sodre bus and train station. A calm, relaxed neighbourhood by the Tagus river is situated in a walking distance from Lisbon’s most famous districts such as Alfama or Baixa. What more would you need? Public transportation? You have tram stop, bus stop, and a metro station just five minutes from your doorstep. Inside the hostelThe hostel is hidden inside an old building that certainly remembers Lisbon’s greater and more festive days. The rooms are spacious are tastefully decorated. You can choose between a double room, a twin room, and dorms of different size. All of them are furnished with comfy bunk beds and personal lockers, where you can lock up all your valuables and treasures. Thanks to enormous windows the rooms are really bright. Besides, the hostel has a nicely designed living room where you can use computers, watch TV, read or just hangout. It’s a perfect place to work. I’ve translated a pile of files in there. Trust me on that one. The internet is really smooth, which is a crucial thing for me as a freelancer. I had many dark moments when traveling simply because of the shady internet making me unable to communicate with my clients. Good news is that this certainly won’t happen to you in Jardim de Santos. Last but not least, there is a fully equipped kitchen, where you can cook anytime you get hungry and get your complimentary breakfast in the mornings. I was actually surprised by how rich the breakfast was. Most of the hostels I stayed at would give you a packed croissant and a terrible instant coffee. Or perhaps they wouldn’t give you anything. Jardim de Santos will feed you with cereals and sandwiches. The coffee is actually good. There are three different types of tea accessible 24/7. A kitchen has a balcony aka a place for smokers, so don't worry if you are one. No need to climb the stairs up and down to have a cigarette.Don’t worry about bed sheets or towels either. You can be sure everything will be neat and clean. Long story short, this is what I call a space like home. The DesignOne of the founders of the place is a designer. A visitor actually feels it at the first sight. The hostel is furnished and decorated with an exceptionally good taste, which truly suits the stylish, old interior. The hostel used to host art exhibitions in the past and, as one of the team members told me, it’s open to host similar events in the future if only the opportunity arises. A person with an eye for detail will certainly be pleased with the way the things in the hostel are arranged. Here are some photos to give you a picture. The StaffI’ve spent four nights in the hostel, so I had a chance to meet most of the staff, if not everyone. I’m thankful to each and every team member, and happy to say that Jardim de Santos people were extremely helpful. I never remember directions to anywhere and I’d like to publicly thank all of you guys for repeating them dozen times. I only got seriously lost once. It’d probably happen more without your assistance. OK, let’s stop kidding. The reception is open 24/7, so even a very late check in is fine. The staff is always smiling and ready to help you to organize your time the best way possible. Thanks to their efforts, the hostel feels like home. You guys, you make Lisbon a friendlier, better place for visitors!ActivitiesI visited Lisbon during a very calm period. It’s already very sunny, warm and pleasant, but the season hasn’t really kicked off yet. What does it mean for a hostel? Many bunks were empty, still waiting for the travelers to come. I kind of loved that, because I had more space for myself, but there is one thing that comes when the summer season arrives. Activities! The hostel organizes culinary nights, excursions to exhibitions and cultural events. I haven’t had an opportunity to try it out myself, but it sounds like fun to me and it might be one more reason to try out this hostel, not all the other ones. Jardim de Santos Hostel feels like home. I know that if I ever need to crash somewhere in Lisbon for a night or two, I will come back. And I don’t say that too often.For more information check out the hostel’s website, and perhaps give them a like on Facebook. Jardim de Santos Hostel generously offered my mom and me a free stay. As always, all opinions are my very own.

Picking the Pictures

Why would anyone blog about a Genocide?

Why would anyone blog about a Genocide that happened a century ago? Why would anyone tweet about a Genocide that happened a century ago?There is a reason. Take a read, I will tell you a story.There are very few foreigners living in Armenia who don’t have Armenian roots. There is even less foreigners in Armenia who blog about their experience. Someone should be documenting it and it seems that someone is me, just because I was blunt enough to start.Moving to a relatively small, but definitely ancient country means a tough and thorough history course. You have to learn how to switch perspectives; you have to learn how to live with fruits of somebody else’s past. This rule applies to any place on earth, but you somehow feel it more, when you are in Armenia. Armenians are unbelievably rooted in the past. People here talk about battles their nation fought thousand years ago like they happened yesterday. Sometimes their words bring a great glory back, but there are also very dark tales, memories on unbelievable atrocities that happened exactly a century ago in ancestral homeland of many Armenians, my closest friends between them. If you follow the media, you probably know that the 100th anniversary of Armenian Genocide was commemorated last week. The commemoration events got much more attention from Western media that I ever expected. Gatherings in honor of the victims had incredible turnout. There were 130 000 thousand people marching for justice in the streets of Los Angeles. Kim Kardashian, George Clooney, Amal Alamuddin, and Vladimir Putin visited Yerevan in one week. Press all around the world kept publishing pieces on Armenia, Armenians, and the Armenian Genocide. Everything is covered, but for some reason I feel like I should say something, too.I won’t blog about the facts. I won’t try to describe what happened in Anatolian plains and Syrian deserts in 1915. There are historians and their books. Only last week articles on this subject were published everywhere from New York Times to Turkish Cumhuriyet. I won’t blog about international events. This is politics, and there are enough political scientists to wrap it up for you. I’m here to share my thoughts and photographs from commemoration events held in Yerevan. I know most of my readers would rather read about my winter holidays in Morocco. They will have to wait. They are also invited to march with me to the Armenian Genocide Memorial in Yerevan to place a carnation next to eternal flame. In early April I shared this photo on my private Facebook profile. It was a part of a global grassroots campaign for raising awareness about the Armenian Genocide. The caption I added answers the question I asked (or I feared you might ask) in the beginning of this very post.I might have no Armenian roots, but Armenia is my adopted country. My life partner and my closest friends are descendants of Armenian Genocide survivors. Their story is now part of my story, too. Why am I sharing this? Because I believe that for a brighter future we need our past to be recognized and respected.I’m sharing it here to explain why this blog’s Facebook and Twitter were solely devoted to Armenia for a week. I know there are people in Western World who never heard of the Armenian Genocide. If at least one of them learns about it from this blog, I will feel accomplished. There is also something more. There are many nations that have to deal with dark, painful past. What is unique about the Armenian case is the active denial of everything they suffered in Ottoman Empire, in their ancestral lands. The wounds that aren’t recognized won’t heal. That’s why we shall keep talking.I was happy and proud to be in Yerevan during the Centennial commemoration events. I was swamped with work, but there was no way I would let my job rob me off these moments. One might think it’s mostly a show, a play for international actors. I agree with it to some extent, but I also see it as a symbolic event. A moment when one should stand still, try to look back, try to think of lessons the centennial can teach him. Moreover, people need shows. I’m not less human than anyone when it comes to that. April 24th was the rainiest day I’ve seen in Yerevan. The center never looked that empty either. There was no one but few confused tourists. It might sound pathetic, but it felt like the weather was joining us to commemorate the 1,5 milions of people who perished during the Genocide. I was soaked before I even reached the memorial. I decided to go there in the afternoon to skip the morning’s speeches of international delegations. I didn’t want to hear new speech of politicians. It was only undisturbed presence that interested me. Remembering all the survivors stories I once memorized Just remembering. That’s all we can do. At 10 PM, I ventured to the center again, this time with my friend and fellow blogger Kami, my boyfriend, and around hundred thousand other people who joined a night torchlight march from Yerevan’s Republic Square to Tsitsernakaberd, the Genocide Memorial. It’s held every year, but it’s never been as big as last week. Some Diaspora Armenians and recognition activists flew to Yerevan for this walk. It has to mean something then. There are people who care about the cause and want another people to google their history lesson. I wish hundred thousand people could walk together in silence. I wish this march could be a tribute to the victims, not a loud parade of political slogans. It was closer to the latter, but still, I was happy to be just there, to experience this explosion of human energy, explosion of being alive. I tried to keep quiet myself. I tried to just be by myself in the crowd. Of course, a silent moment at the Memorial meant the most to me. I hate crowd and I can go to the memorial any day. I made it to the end of the march, because the ones who want to raise awareness have to experience something to spread it further. I went there to write this article. To show you little images of it. That’s all I can do. On Monday, April 27th, I joined annual Flower Gathering, the most beautiful event of the week. Each year, following the days after April 24th, hundreds of thousands of flowers placed at the Armenian Genocide Memorial in Yerevan were transported to trash cans and burned. Since 2010 these flowers are gathered and their stems are removed from the petals – compost is derived from the stems and the petals are used to make handmade recycled paper. Other parts are used as compost in the Memorial area. I love the idea and I love flower petals. I participated in the event last year and I knew I had to make it again. This way the commemoration end with a tribute to life and the living, with a reminder that we shall live on and look towards the future rather than the past.Thank you for walking all this way with me.

Picking the Pictures

Let's go up the Cascade

Only in Yerevan you will find a giant stairway to a great skyline. It’s called Cascade and it’s definitely more than just a climbing challenge. Believe me or not, but there is an entire contemporary art museum hidden inside. It goes by the name of Cafesjian Art Center and it’s quite worth a visit.The exterior is decorated with numerous fountains and various sculptures belonging to the museum, including pieces by Fernando Botero and Robert Indiana. The art is only an introduction to all the beauty you will see if you are brave to go to the top and if the weather gods are generous enough to make the skies clear. The Cascade is a fantastic point for picture perfect views of Mount Ararat and downtown Yerevan.Tip for the lazier travelers: there is an escalator underneath the stairs. Use it. I went all the way up once taking a photo of each and every sculpture for the sole purpose of this post. I'm publishing most of them today. Be nice to me now.Thank you for walking up&down with me!